My friend Marie-France had kissed me good-bye as I was leaving Aix-en-Provence, and told me to drive straight north to Lyon from Aix, and then turn left and drive another hour and a half west.  She knew this, but had never actually been to Clermont-Ferrand.  Indeed, my announcement to friends in Aix that I was moving to Clermont-Ferrand was met with aghast looks, much lip pursing, and eyebrow raising.